Frequently Asked Questions
Are you affiliated with Ikea?
We are not affiliated or associated with Ikea in any way. All Semihandmade doors and parts are 100% after-market and meant to accessorize Ikea cabinet systems.
Which cabinet systems do Semihandmade doors accessorize?
We make doors that fit both the old and new kitchen systems, Besta (media), and Godmorgon (bathroom vanity).
Can you copy their existing door styles?
No, their door styles are completely their own. We do not copy or match Ikea doors.
What are Semihandmade doors made of?
The majority of Semihandmade doors consist of a substrate, or inner core, and an external material. The external material for our Supermatte, Beaded and CLJ doors is Thermofoil – a flexible vinyl that is heat-molded onto a substrate with a smooth melamine back. The external material for our Classic doors is veneer - a thin layer of real wood that is applied to both sides of the substrate. The external material for our Impression doors is textured melamine – a three-dimensional plastic. The substrate for our Supermatte, Beaded, CLJ, and Classic doors is MDF, or Medium Density Fiberboard. The substrate of our Impression doors is Particle Board. Both MDF and Particle board provide the flattest and most structurally stable surface on which to apply our various materials. Our DIY Shaker doors have lumber frames and MDF panels. DIY Slab doors are MDF with maple edge banding. For more specifics, please consult our Materials page.
Do you make solid doors?
We do not make solid doors; the exception being our DIY shaker 5” drawers which are made of solid, paint-grade maple. Despite what you may have heard or read, and what may have been the case 30 years ago, solid wood cabinet doors no longer exist. Exposure to heat, moisture and sunlight force wood to expand and contract - it will warp, crack and cup otherwise - which is the reason for using veneer on MDF. Really, MDF should stand for "Miraculous Dense Fiberboard" because it performs so well and at a reasonable price.
How do the edges on your doors come?
Semihandmade veneer, DIY Slab, and textured melamine doors have 1 mil thickness edge-banding (Industry-standard is .6 mil). Our thermofoil doors have minimal-radius wrapped thermofoil edges. DIY Shaker doors come unbanded (all have solid wood rails/stiles) but decorative panels, like DIY Slab, have 1 mil nosing.
Do you offer glass doors?
The only glass doors we offer are Shaker-style, with the rails and stiles 2.5" (DIY) and 2" (Supermatte) wide. Because of the possibility of damage while shipping, and so you can get the exact type you want, those doors come without glass. It's also not uncommon for our Clients to mix some of their glass doors with ours. We do not offer "glass-ready" doors taller than 40". It is best to seek the assistance from a professional glass shop for proper cutting and installing of glass into our frames.
Do you paint your doors?
We don’t. If you want painted doors, our paint grade DIY Shaker and DIY Slab doors are perfect for you; we'll send everything unfinished and you can either paint the parts yourself or find someone local to get you the exact shade and tone you want. We do offer a variety of color choices in our Supermatte collection that are made of thermofoil materials and ready to install.
What if I need to Add On to my project?
Please note, if your material comes from our Reclaimed or Classic lines, we are unable to guarantee the added-on product will be from the same batch originally ordered since veneers vary greatly in tone and pattern even within specified species. Additionally, sequencing for Add-On orders is not guaranteed.
How do I care for my doors?
Use a damp cloth with non-abrasive soap to clean your cabinets, and dry immediately. Never leave any water standing on cabinet surfaces. Orange oil/wax is also effective, as is mineral spirits, but please use sparingly. For more information, visit our Care & Cleaning page.
Where is the door material / style / color option that I once saw on your site?
We're always looking for ways to reduce our impact on the environment. Variety is great, but it can also create a lot of waste and redundancy. There's also the simple fact that tastes change and as we continue to grow and keep our pulse on the latest trends, it means our product lineup does go through some changes.
What are “sequenced" doors?
The word “sequence" refers ONLY to our Walnut doors. What it means, simply, is that the real wood veneer fronts fall in sequential order and are stamped as such for proper installation.
Do you make doors that fit Ikea's discontinued Akurum kitchen system?
Absolutely. Not sure how to tell which system you have? Find out here.
What if I just need a few replacement doors for my older Akurum kitchen?
But you could also consider replacing a run of doors. For example, keeping the exisiting wall units and replacing the base cabinet fronts. Or vice versa. The same holds true for just replacing an island or wall of cabinets.
There really are many ways to get creative when it comes to replacing and mixing in new doors with older existing doors.
Do all your fronts come in the sizes that they offer?
Yes, we make all standard sizes that they offer.
Is everything pre-drilled to accept their interior hardware?
Yes, all standard doors and drawer faces are pre-drilled to function with Ikea's internal hardware (hinge, drawer). Panels, flip-up doors and trim are not drilled, please refer to our installation manual for tips on installation. As with Ikea, because panel installation can vary from project to project, no fasteners are included.
Do you offer dishwasher, refrigerator and other custom-sized appliance panels?
Yes, we offer cover panels for most panel ready appliances. Like all custom pieces, it is 100% the customer’s responsibility to provide the dimensions needed. The manufacturer is the best reference to verify the necessary dimensions. Please note: we do not drill for any custom piece, be it an appliance cover panel or otherwise. We also do not provide sub-panels, additional hardware or anything else necessary to complete an installation; this is entirely the responsibility of the customer or installer (this is industry-standard, and easy-to-follow templates come with the instructions).
If we've picked out door handles/drawer pulls we like, will you pre-drill the holes for them?
Unfortunately, no. Decorative hardware drilling is best done on-site.
Do you offer base, wall and tall panels?
We do! For more information, read the next answer below.
Any major differences between Semihandmade parts and theirs?
The biggest difference is our panels are 3/4" thick, and theirs can be as thin as 1/2" or 5/8."
Note: unless requested, our panels are over-sized to account for irregularities in walls, floors and ceilings. They are meant to sit slightly past or "proud" of the cabinet facing for the most built-in look. Base and tall panels are meant to go directly to the floor (as opposed to having the plinth/toe-kick return around the cabinet's side). It's not rocket science, but you'll likely need a table saw and chop-saw. For examples, please consult our Projects page.
Can I design my kitchen myself?
Absolutely, most clients do! Click here for Ikea's free and amazingly easy-to-use Kitchen Planner. We recommend you design with cabinet fronts, even though you will be using our fronts, as it helps you know what doors and parts you need. Once your design is complete, go to our Kitchen Shop to order your doors.
Can I work with other design programs or an architect?
Yes, some people use SketchUp, AutoCAD 2020 or architectural drawings. As long as your elevation drawings include dimensions of the fronts, you can easily match your door needs and create your online cart. In need of design help? Some trusted options can be found here.
If I modify a cabinet, can you make me a custom door/drawer size?
It really depends on the cabinet in question. Consult a Sales Associate for details. We can make custom sizes, but the client is 100% responsible for the required dimensions and we do not drill these pieces. You can order custom pieces here.
What if I've got a kitchen/bathroom from another company. Can you make doors for that?
We sure can! Please see our 'Custom Sized Pieces' page for more info.
Do you offer custom cabinets?
We do not.
What if I want something really custom? Can you send me unfinished parts that match the rest of the kitchen so I can find someone local to make the piece??
Nothing stops a customer from ordering panels, but once a piece is used in a way that is inconsistent with its intended use - like using a door or panel as a table-top or counter surface - the warranty is voided.
My layout is complete, what's next?
Once your layout is complete, go to our kitchen shop and begin building your cart with our door fronts.
We also offer a "Create Your Cart" option, where for $99 we will take your plans and create your cart for you. If this sounds like it's for you, click here to find out more.
What is the lead-time on orders?
Our lead times can be found here.
Can my order be expedited?
Yes, depending on the material, orders can be expedited for an additional cost. Reach out to us at email@example.com for details.
How much is shipping?
Shipping can vary depending on size, weight and location of your order. Please click here to see shipping costs depending on location.
What payment options do you offer?
We accept all major credit cards, Paypal, and monthly financing via Affirm. More Details.
Will there be sales tax on my order?
Sales tax is applicable in certain states only. When adding your shipping address during checkout, our website will automatically calculate the applicable tax for your state.
What if I need to change my order?
Our most up to date information regarding order changes and edits can be found here.
What if I want to cancel my order?
How do I measure for my replacement cabinet fronts?
Please refer to our detailed measuring guide here.
How do I know if my cabinets are frameless or framed?
With frameless cabinets, the hinges are installed directly into the side panels of the cabinet box. With framed cabinets, there is a frame that runs along the full perimeter of the cabinet box and that is where the hinge gets installed.
Can I reuse my current hinges?
Yes, you can reuse your current hinges. In order to do so, you must select No Hinges / Undrilled upon checkout. Please note that your doors will come undrilled and you or your contractor will need to drill onsite to ensure a perfect fit with your hinges. Follow the “Measuring Guide for Using Existing Hinges” section of the measuring guide.
How do I measure for a Lazy Susan?
Please refer to the “Measuring for Lazy Susans” section of the measuring guide. Important Note: We DO NOT offer hinges and drilling for full overlay (1 1/4") Lazy Susan doors. If you have framed cabinets and need to include a Lazy Susan in your order, you must measure and order your entire project with the standard overlay (1/2"). You can also order them with No Hinges/Undrilled.
What is a blind corner cabinet?
A blind corner is the space that is created where two perpendicular lines of cabinets meet. A good use of limited kitchen corner storage space is to install a “blind corner cabinet,” which extends beyond the corner and takes up the unused space.
How do I measure for a blind corner cabinet door?
Measure for a blind corner cabinet door the same way you would measure for a standard door (according to which project type you have—no hinges/undrilled, frameless or framed). Keep in mind you are only measuring your existing door or the opening, not the full size of the cabinet. For example, a blind corner cabinet may take up 36" of space, but the door would only be used on 12" of that space. You will need a special hinge to work with a blind corner cabinet, so be sure to select blind corner at check out.
What is a diagonal cabinet?
A diagonal cabinet—also known as a corner cabinet—is a cabinet that is located in the corner of a room. It is often smaller than other cabinets. A diagonal corner cabinet is used when cabinets extend along the corner of a room, which is frequently the case in many kitchens.
How do I measure for a diagonal cabinet?
Measure for a diagonal cabinet door the same way you would measure for a standard door (according to which project type you have—no hinges/undrilled, frameless or framed). Keep in mind you are only measuring your existing door or the opening, not the full size of the cabinet. For example, a blind corner cabinet may take up 36" of space, but the door would only be used on 12" of that space. You will need a special hinge to work with a diagonal cabinet, so be sure to select diagonal cabinet as your type of piece at checkout.
Do you sell hinges?
Yes, we offer soft-close hinges for both framed and frameless cabinets when you purchase your custom replacement doors. Select Framed Hinges & Drilling or Frameless Hinges & Drilling at checkout. Each door will come with a set of hinges and the proper drilling to fit the hinge. We do not sell hinges à la carte.
Do you make inset cabinet doors?
No. Our replacement doors are only made for frameless and framed cabinets that are installed over the face of the cabinet.
How do I get my cabinet frames to match the color of my new doors?
If you chose a supermatte color finish, we suggest you get a color match at your local paint store and paint the frames. Be sure to use a primer first, we suggest Zinsser. Then use a very durable color matched paint. We suggest Benjamin Moore Advance Interior Paint.
If you chose one of our wood grain finishes, we sell material called “Edge Banding” that you can apply to the frames to match.
How do I get my side panels to match the color of my new doors?
You have two options for side panels:
If you chose a Supermatte color finish, we suggest you get a color match at your local paint store and paint the frames. Be sure to use a primer first (we suggest Zinsser). Then, use a very durable color-matched paint (we suggest Benjamin Moore Advance Interior Paint).
If you chose a wood grain finish or prefer not to deal with the hassle of painting, we sell base and wall panels, trim, and toe kick that can be applied over your existing cabinets.
Do you have hardware?
Yes, you can purchase decorative hardware from us here.
Do the doors come drilled for hardware?
No, our doors and drawer fronts are not drilled for decorative hardware.
Do you offer drilling if we are not purchasing hinges from you?
No. If you are not purchasing hinges directly from us we cannot drill the doors for you.
Do you offer custom drilling and boring patterns?
No. We do not offer any custom drilling or boring patterns.
What is an overlay?
An overlay has to do with how much of the face frame you see when the cabinet doors are closed. It’s the distance between the door and the outside edge of the cabinet (called the reveal). By selecting the “standard” ½” overlay, you’ll see more of the cabinet frame when the doors are closed. Frameless cabinets have a very minimal overlay, which is typically 1/16" of a reveal.
Can I change my overlay?
Framed cabinets typically have a ½” overlay. We offer measuring instructions, hinges and drilling for the industry standard 1/2" overlay only. If you’d like to change your style to a full overlay, you can do so by ordering your doors undrilled/without hinges. Frameless cabinets have a very minimal overlay which is standard and cannot be changed.
Can I cancel my order?
Custom orders cannot be changed, canceled, or refunded.
Can I return pieces?
Custom orders cannot be changed, canceled, or refunded.
Can I make changes to an order I submitted?
Custom orders cannot be changed, canceled, or refunded.
How quickly will I receive my doors?
Please refer to our lead times page.
----FAQ FOR HINGES & INSTALLS----
How do I install my replacement cabinet fronts?
Please refer to our installation guide here.
How do I know which hinges go with which doors?
The hinges and hinge plates you receive will be specific to the type of door you ordered. We recommend referencing your order confirmation page to match the correct hinge and hinge plate with each of your doors.
Your hinge plates can be identified by the number on the back side of the plate towards the bottom. You will see either H00, H03 or H04.
Standard Doors on Framed Cabinets will have a regular, straight hinge and a 4mm hinge plate (look on the back of the hinge plate for H04)
Standard Doors on Frameless Cabinets will use the same regular, straight hinge, but with a 0mm hinge plate (look on the back of the hinge plate for H00)
Doors for Diagonal Cabinets on either Framed or Frameless will have a regular hinge that has a slight bend in the elbow and a 4mm hinge plate (look on the back of the hinge plate for H04)
Doors for Blind Corner Cabinets on either Framed or Frameless will have a hinge that has a 90 degree angle and looks like an L. These will use a 4mm hinge plate (look on the back of the hinge plate for H04)
Doors for Lazy Susan Cabinets on either Framed or Frameless need two sets of hinges and two sets of hinge plates.
The first set is used to connect the two lazy Susan doors to each other. This hinge has a long bend in it that makes the arm look like a v shape. This pairs with a 3mm plate (look on the back of the hinge plate for H03)
The second set is used to install the door into the cabinet base. This hinge will have two bends in, making it look like a zig zag. This pairs with a 0mm plate (look on the back of the hinge plate for H00)
How do I install my hinges?
All of the hinges you purchased require no tools or screws to install into the boring holes on your doors. Once you’ve matched each hinge and hinge plate to the correct door, you’ll need to install the hinge into the cup hole on the door. Make sure the hinge is in the open position, and that the falange is up. Align the hinge with the boring cup hole and two guide holes and apply pressure. Once the hinge is in the holes, press down firmly to secure and close the falange.
Connect the hinge to the hinge plate with the doors still off your cabinets. The hinge and the hinge plate will connect by sliding the hinge into the face plate towards the metal tab. Press down until you hear a click to ensure the hinge is connected to the hinge plate.
How do I install my doors?
Once you’ve installed your hinges into your doors, and attached the hinge plates, take the door to the cabinet you are going to install it on. Have one person hold it up to the cabinet, and make sure it's aligned to properly cover the cabinet opening. Once the door is in the correct position and level, make pencil marks in the two pilot holes in the hinge plate. Remove the door and hinge from the hinge plate by releasing the metal tab and pulling them apart.
Now, take just the hinge plate back to the cabinet box and align it with the pencil marks you made—make sure to use a level. With a Phillips head screwdriver or drill, install a screw into the center of the mark you drew. You will need two screws per hinge plate.
Once you’ve properly installed your hinge plates, reattach your door and hinges to the hinge plate by sliding them into place and making sure you hear the click to lock them in.
Once you’ve installed your doors, they will need to be adjusted for the perfect fit. There are three screws for adjusting that run horizontally with the hinge. Do not adjust the screws you installed the hinge plate into the cabinet box with.
When facing your hinge, the screw closest to the back of the hinge controls the depth adjustment (moves the door closer to the cabinet box or further away from the cabinet box).
The center screw controls the height adjustment (moves the door up or down).
The screw closest to the front controls the lateral adjustment (moves the door left to right).
Use each screw to adjust your doors as needed up or down, left or right, and front or back for a perfect fit.
How do I install Lazy Susan replacement doors?
Your Lazy Susan doors will come in a set of two. There will be four boring holes in one door and no holes in the other door.
Use the hinge with the long bend (v shape) and the 3mm hinge plate (H03) to connect the two doors together.
Once the hinge plate is connected to the hinge, stand both doors up on their edges side by side, ensuring they are on a level surface. The doors should be connected when they are standing together at a 90-degree angle and there is approximately a ⅛” gap between them.
Using two screws, drill the hinge plate into the door without any boring holes, to secure them. Keep in mind that you can adjust the hinges after installation for the perfect spacing. As you are installing the hinge plate, ensure the doors remain level, at the same height, and that the ⅛” gap is consistent from top to bottom.
Once you’ve installed the hinge plate, disconnect the two doors by pressing the release tab on the hinge plate.
Next, take the hinge with the double bend (zig-zag shape) and the 0mm hinge plate (H00) to install the door into the cabinet base.
Once the door is attached to the cabinet base, take the second door and connect it to the installed door by sliding the hinge into the hinge plate, making sure you hear the click.
How do I install my new drawer fronts?
When installing your new drawer fronts, we recommend reusing the existing drawer screws that are holding your current drawer fronts in place. Use double-sided foam tape to hold the drawer front in place while you install.
Apply 2-4 pieces of foam tape to the front of your cabinet box, depending on the size of the drawer. Put the drawer front in place, ensuring it’s straight, level, and precisely covers the drawer box before applying pressure.
Once the drawer front is in place with the double-sided foam tape, open the drawer and re-install the same screws into the new drawer front using the existing pilot holes. Use a drill to ensure the screws go all the way through to the drawer front to secure it into place.
Pro tip: When installing the next drawer front, make sure there is a ⅛” gap between the two drawers to allow them to open and close smoothly. Using a cabinet bumper on the top of your drawer front will act as a good spacer when installing the drawer above it, and it can be removed after you are finished.
What screws do I need to install my new hinges and doors?
Be sure to purchase your screws separately before installing. Double check the thickness of your cabinet base before drilling as you may need a shorter or longer screw.
Why does one of my doors have no boring holes?
If you ordered doors for a Lazy Susan, you will receive one door with 4 boring holes and one door with no boring holes. Follow the Lazy Susan installation instructions to install. If you did not order Lazy Susan doors, contact customer service.
Why do some of my doors have 3 boring holes?
If your door is 40” or taller, you will need 3 hinges and 3 hinge plates to support the extra height of your door. Therefore, these doors will have 3 boring holes.
Why do some of my doors have 4 boring holes?
If you ordered doors for a Lazy Susan, you will receive one door with 4 boring holes and one door with no boring holes. Follow the Lazy Susan installation instructions to install. If you did not order Lazy Susan doors, contact customer service.
Do I need to sand DIY doors before painting them?
No, our DIY doors come pre-sanded.
Do I need to use a primer?
Yes, we recommend priming your doors before painting them. Allow for at least one hour for the primer to dry prior to painting.
Do I need to use 2 coats of paint?
Yes, we recommend using 2 coats of paint to ensure proper coverage and durability.
Do I need a top coat or sealer?
No, you do not need anything as a top layer.
How much does a gallon of paint cover?
For 2 coat coverage, 1 gallon covers approximately 400 square feet and a 1/2 gallon covers approximately 200 square feet.
How much paint do I need?
Please refer to our guide for determining how much paint you'll need for your project.
How should I paint the doors?
We recommend using a paint sprayer for a seamless finish. If you can't use a sprayer, you can use a small roller. Always avoid using too thick of a coat. Less is more.
How long should I wait in between coats?
Wait one hour after priming the doors before painting. Your first coat of paint should be dry to the touch in 3 hours, but won’t be dry enough for a second coat for at least 7 hours.
How long should I wait before installing the doors?
You should treat the freshly painted doors with care for 7-10 days after painting. Painted surfaces are vulnerable to scratching/scuffing until fully cured. Backdrop cabinet/door paint requires at least one week to fully cure.
How is cabinet/door paint different than regular paint?
This premium acrylic paint is optimized for your cabinets with a semi-gloss finish, extra durability, and high-quality pigments that apply rich color smoothly and evenly.
Is Backdrop paint environmentally friendly?
Yes, Backdrop is proud to be Greenwise and Climate Neutral Certified.
What is Backdrop paint made of?
Backdrop is ultra-low odor and low-VOC (Green Wise certified), meeting the most stringent standards set by California’s South Coast Air Management Office. All paints are basically made up of solvents, resins, and pigments. Solvents serve as the liquid vehicle, resins serve to create a tight bond with the painting surface, and pigments create the paint color. Backdrop paints are all water-based (latex), made with high-quality acrylic resins and the best pigments.
Where do you ship?
We ship all products everywhere in the contiguous United States (with the exception of Caesarstone). For information on Caesarstone availability, click here.
We ship doors orders and door samples to Canada. For more information, click here.
How is my order shipped?
All doors are totally insured against damage and are shipped LTL (a private shipper with Less-Than-a-Truckload) via curbside delivery. Please plan accordingly. Please note: White glove service and inside delivery ARE available. For additional questions please contact us.
Can I pick up my order?
Unfortunately, local pickups are not available as our doors ship from different manufacturing facilities around the US.
Is there a size limit to what you ship?
To prevent damage, the maximum length of any Semihandmade piece we ship is 95". For panels, the maximum height is 95", so if you need something taller it will come in 2 pieces and please note there will be a seam.
What if something arrives damaged?
The only thing more important than getting your order right is making sure it arrives in mint condition. To that end, we take great care in packing everything and stand behind our shipping agents. We ask that all customers check their delivery upon arrival and notify us of any problems within 3 business days. Documenting damage is vital, so please make note of the damage when signing for your shipment, take photos and save all packing material. Please note: Any physical damage to the outside of packaging must be photographed and reported to firstname.lastname@example.org within 24 hours. All damage claims are void if not reported to Semihandmade within 3 business days of delivery.
Do you ship to a PO BOX?
We are sorry, but at this time we do not ship to a PO BOX.
What is the difference between a panel and a filler?
Panels are meant to cover the entire side of the box while a filler is meant to “fill” in a small space (4” or less) from a cabinet to a wall.
What is trim?
Trim is a catch all term for all decorative molding and pieces placed on or around cabinet fronts for aesthetic purposes. Here’s a list of the trim pieces we have available and their primary use:
- 5” x 93” Plinth/Trim = There are four main uses for this:
1. Plinth. “Plinth” is another way of saying “toe-kick”, which is the material that is tucked underneath the cabinets to hide the adjustable feet and the space underneath.
2. Light Rail. Light Rail is a decorative molding applied to the bottom of wall cabinets to provide a finished look. It is specifically used to help mask the installation of under cabinet lighting and is typically 1 ½” tall.
3. Wall Trim. Wall Trim is a decorative molding, usually 3” tall, that sits above the wall cabinets and stretches very close to the ceiling. Crown molding (which we do not sell) can be applied to the Upper Trim.
4. Tall Filler. See the FAQ #6.
- 24” x 5” Cabinet Trim = Used in conjunction with a built-in appliance, like a microwave. The width is equal to the doors and drawer faces (23 7/8”).
- 30” x 5” Cabinet Trim = Used in conjunction with a built-in appliance, often an oven. The width is equal to the doors and drawer faces (29 7/8”).
- 36” x 5” Cabinet Trim = Used in conjunction with a built-in appliance, often an oven. The width is equal to the doors and drawer faces (35 7/8”).
- 30” x 5” Fridge Trim = Used to cover the gap underneath a fridge cabinet and above the fridge. The width equals the cabinet box (30”).
- 36” x 5” Fridge Trim = Used to cover the gap underneath a fridge cabinet and above the fridge. The width equals the cabinet box (36”).
How do I know how much trim and filler to order?
Determining filler is straight forward
- Find all the spots where cabinets meet the walls
- Add a filler piece for every cabinet in that spot (order the same height as the cabinet)
Determining toe kick/plinth/trim is about simple math and we made that easy for you!
Need to find out how much toe-kick/plinth/trim you need? Click here for our toe kick calculator.
Note: one piece of toe kick/plinth/trim can provide 93” of both Wall Trim and Light Rail or two pieces of Light Rail.
Where do panels go?
Here are the three main instances where a panel is needed:
Panels cap the end of a cabinet run that doesn’t terminate at a wall.
Panels can also separate deep and shallow cabinet sections, such as next to a refrigerator.
Panels can offer support for the countertop when a cabinet run ends with an appliance.
How do I know which size panel to purchase?
There are three different types of panels to choose from, each corresponding to the type of cabinet to which it is affixed: wall, base, and tall. Here is a list of the panels available and their most popular applications:
- 17” x 32” = Meant to be affixed to 30” high wall cabinets. The panel comes over-sized and needs to be scribed to the wall. It can also be cut to exactly 30” if there is no light rail being used. Use this size for 20” and 15” high cabinets as well.
- 17” x 42” = Meant to be affixed to 40” high wall cabinets. The panel comes over-sized and needs to be scribed to the wall. It can also be cut to exactly 40” if there is no light rail being used. Use this size for shallow (15” deep) base cabinets as well.
- 26” x 30” = Meant to be affixed to a base cabinet for a floating look (panel doesn’t extend to the floor). The panel comes over-sized and needs to be scribed to the wall.
- 26” x 36” = Meant to be affixed to a base cabinet. The panel comes over-sized and needs to be scribed to the wall and to the floor. Also used as the end panel for single, 24” deep cabinet island/peninsulas with a back panel. In this use, scribe to floor only.
- 40” x 36” = Meant as an end cap for back to back, 24” and 15” deep base cabinet island/peninsulas. Scribe to floor only.
- 49 ¼” x 36” = Meant as an end cap for back to back, 24” and 24” deep base cabinet island/peninsulas. Scribe to floor only.
- 95” x 36” (36” x 95” tall panel) = Meant as a back panel for single, 24” deep cabinet island/peninsulas. Cut to length and scribe to the floor. Note: Impressions will run horizontally in this application.
- 17” x 95” = Meant to be affixed to a shallow (15” deep) tall cabinet (80” or 90” high). Scribe to the wall and to the floor. It can also be used with stacked wall cabinets.
- 26” x 95” = Meant to be affixed to a regular (24” deep) tall cabinet (80” or 90” high). It is also used to flank cabinet-depth refrigerators. Scribe to the wall and to the floor.
- 36” x 95” = Meant to flank deeper refrigerators.
What is a filler and where does it go?
Fillers “fill” the gaps between cabinet runs and existing walls. They can also be used to create corners between perpendicular cabinet runs. These fillers are the exact same texture and tone as your cabinet faces, must be ripped down to size, and allow you to create a seamless, built-in look. Fillers are available in these sizes:
- 4” x 30” wall filler = Used next to base and 30” high wall cabinets
- 8” x 30” wall filler = Used next to base and 30” high wall cabinets in a corner application
- 4” x 40” wall filler = Used next to 40” high wall cabinets
- 5” x 93” plinth/trim/toe kick = Can be used next to 80” and 90” tall cabinets
- 5” x 95” tall filler = can be used next to tall cabinets or next to a refrigerator as a“dummy” panel
Fillers need to be cut down to fit into these gaps. We always recommend a professional installer accomplish this for you. Please reference our installation manual for more information.
What's the difference between a pull-out and a drawer?
Technically, just the height of the piece. Pull-Out doors are like big drawers; they are drilled to fit with Ikea’s High Maximera drawer, just like a 15” tall drawer face. This is the only attachment point that we provide. Note: The 12” wide, pull-out hardware from Ikea comes with a top-drawer attachment template.
Why would I want a pull-out instead of drawers or a door?
Pull-Outs are often used to house trash and recycling receptacles.
How do your prices compare to Ikea's?We used to spend a lot of time and energy comparing our door prices to Ikea’s, thousands of words stacked neatly alongside colorful graphs and charts and anything else we figured best conveyed the idea that a (much) smaller company like Semihandmade could (somehow) offer pricing that falls consistently within spitting-distance of a company the size of Ikea. Funny, right? Thankfully, we don’t bother anymore. As we’ve learned, comparing yourself to Ikea is like going toe-to-toe with Amazon; you can’t. So we don’t.
That in mind, here’s a list of what makes Semihandmade doors special, unique, and perfectly suited for your dream Ikea kitchen, bathroom, or media cabinet (and yeah, maybe even different from Ikea’s):
1) Semihandmade doors are proudly made in the USA. Maybe that matters to you, maybe it doesn’t (to us it does). Sure, we could make them overseas; they’d definitely be a lot less expensive. That’s not a dig at Ikea, it’s economics, and they’re the biggest and best furniture retailer on the planet for a reason.
2) Being small and nimble, Semihandmade has a lot more material options than Ikea does (not a swipe at Ikea; when you’re Apple- or Nike-big, it’s never a good idea to get overly cute with the selections).
3) Semihandmade offers things like appliance panels in custom sizes that Ikea can’t and doesn’t (outside of a standard dishwasher panel). Think Bosch and Fisher Paykel and Sub-Zero.
4) We pride ourselves on world-class Customer Service (even if we’re coming to you from Duarte, CA) – we’re here, we’re accessible, we’re never far from Social Media, and if you’re paying close attention you may actually bump into the guy that started the company on Instagram or at a design show or answering a question at email@example.com.
How much does a typical project cost?
Doing what we do, we can tell you that every kitchen is unique and different, so there's no simple way to answer this question. But, we've created an example kitchen setup to help you get a rough idea of what our different line of doors built to fit Ikea cabinets might cost.
Roughly, a typical kitchen remodel using the Ikea system will have fixed costs (cabinets, hardware, assembly, and installation) ranging from $3,000 - $6,000.
Using the example kitchen layout shown above, a Semihandmade order - for the doors, drawer faces, panels and trim - will be in the following range:DIY Slab - $2,450
DIY Shaker - $2,775
Impression and Supermatte - $4,175 - $4,475
Appliances, counter tops, and any other expenditures are not factored into these estimates.